• TURBO BUILDER's BOG™
• TURBO TINT'n FILL™

Some Do’s and Don’ts
When working with BUILDER'S BOG™
Do
* Use an oil-based primer/undercoat for maximum exterior durability in the sun, especially in wet areas.
* Ensure hardener is within specified range-which is very large. Less and it will never fully react and cure to its proper strength . More, and it will remain soft and greasy and won’t accept paint well.
* Store in a cool place – the cooler the better for max shelf life. Keep below 30°C above this temperature, storage life will be reduced greatly. The end of usable life is when the product is too stiff to apply.
* Where screw holding is required , ensure the screw passes through the BUILDER'S BOG™ and into solid timber beneath,if any appreciable load is to be carried e.g in fitting a new door lock or repairing hinge beds etc.. BUILDER'S BOG™ is not formulated as an adhesive and its easy-machining qualities are not compatible with maximum structural strength in tension and shear, though compressive strength is very good.
* Ensure all the repair is scuffed and sanded before painting. This removes the film, which BUILDER'S BOG™ forms on its exposed surface. Paint will not stick well to this film.

Don’t
* Prime or treat wood first. Many anti-rot-treatments interfere with the chemical reaction, which cures the BUILDER'S BOG™. Water based paints, in particular, are softened by components in the BUILDER'S BOG™ and spoil the subsequent bond to the substrate. Oil based paints which are fully hard (which takes many days to achieve) are not affected, but the bond is still less than that of BUILDER'S BOG™ directly on sound timber cellulose, where it chemically binds.
* Paint before the BUILDER'S BOG™ is fully cured and sanded to a non-tacky surface. Sanding is important, everywhere you intend to paint.
* Use water-base paint where max. Adhesion in hot sun and rain is required.
* Under-catalyse to allow working time to extend above design limits.
* Where many tiny holes or shallow depressions are involved, it is suggested you use a conventional single pack filler. Otherwise, if you must have the superior cured properties of BUILDER'S BOG™, use many small mixes catalysed to the correct minimum level, and work in the shade and at the lowest temperature possible to extend working time. This is not the application where BUILDER'S BOG™ excels – it is designed to repair and replace larger areas of rotten or missing timber, where speed of working is important and single pack fillers are too slow to dry.
* Allow previous mix to get in the can. It will harden the whole can accidentally!

Tips on Using BUILDER'S BOG™
Because heat accelerates and cold slows the curing reaction, one can put one part of a single mix in the icebox whilst using the other part in the sun (or heating it with a hot air gun). The second cold part can then be rapidly applied to the first where a delay to mix up a new lot is not permissible. So long as the first fill is still heating up from the chemical reaction, the second layer from the icebox ca be applied without sanding and this can help in deep holes and places where sanding is impossible until the surface is raised flush. It also saves cleaning tools between mixes, since it is important not to get any previous mix into the tin of fresh material, or it will harden unintentionally in the tin!
To colour Builder’s Bog, use only dry oxide pigments, obtainable from you paint or hardware retailer. Don’t use oil or “ universal” liquid tinters, they degrade the final properties. Where the pink colour of the hardener is a problem, you can obtain white hardener by special request. Pink is used to indicate the correct level and thoroughness of mixing. One cannot tell this with white hardener paste.
For quickest machining, catch the fill at the balsa wood stage, which lasts several minutes before max temperature is obtained. Max temperature depends on the depth of fill and how quickly the heat is being lost to the atmosphere. It can go over 100 °C, on a big fill – sufficient to burn you if not careful. Shallow fills will not warm detectably, and anything thinner than 2mm needs special care if temperature are below 15°C. Do not use the product outside when it is too cold to apply paint i.e. generally below 10 °C. unless you can provide extra warmth.
Always replace the lid to prevent the cross-linking agents from evaporating.
Where a complicated shape eg a piece of cornice moulding, is required, you can make a pattern out of Builder’s Bog from an existing piece, using cooking foil and car wax to separate the pattern. Then cast your new piece from Builder’s Bog, using the waxed-foil side of the mould you have just made, spreading it on the foil to the approximate thickness you need. When cured, press it into position on a bed of builder’s Bog mix, allow to gel, and trim off the flash with a blade. Sand the joint lightly and you will have an invisible replacement, very easily.