One Filler – Three common problems
Here are three of the most common problems a builder or handyman will meet during restoration work, and advice on how to deal with them in the simplest manner, while still making a perfect, completely undetectable job.

Picture 1 is the classic hole in the wall. In this case the hole opens into a cavity which means a back-up cannot be fastened in place for the filler (the usual case with the inside walls in gypsum plaster board). Fold a piece of cardboard to fit through the hole, push thin wire or string through the middle and tie to a nail to stop it pulling back through. Be sure to pull the fold back in the centre to hold the edges tight against the inside of the damage and hold it there using the weight of a piece of 4x2, balanced as shown. The wire is twisted around a small nail in the end of the 4x2. Having mixed the TURBO BUILDER'S BOG in the over-cap mixing bowl supplied with each can, just fill the hole against the cardboard backer as shown. TRADE TRICK: It is not important to make a smooth job at this stage – just get sufficient in to make the hole over-full. TURBO BUILDER'S BOG is so easy to machine when in it balsa-wood stage, (about ten minutes after gelling), that is pointless to keep fiddling to spread it smoothly. ‘Chesesegrate’ it flat with a Surform file, then sand with 80 grit paper, and a finer grade if required, before painting. For inside work, water-based undercoat is fine but use oil-based if outside, particularly where hot sun or dark colours might be involved.

Picture 2 shows a different problem - rot in old timbers. To replace this old window still would take a tradesman hours, and a handyman all day if it was still fixed in place and not in a studio, such as this one. Chisel out all the rot – right back to solid timber – do not leave any mould spores behind to re-establish the attack. Mix the TURBO BUILDER'S BOG and fill the cavity as shown. Force it against the wood to make sure it wets it and no air pockets remain - do not just throw it in roughly. The cross linking agents will then wet the fibres and bond to them chemically, ensuring it will never come out. Once again, do not over-trowel the fill – use your extra time to clean the tools before the TURBO BUILDER'S BOG sets on them. Lacquer thinners, acetone, methylated spirits or super grade petrol will do the job but remember, once hard, nothing dissolves TURBO BUILDER'S BOG! Aim to fill the hole proud and plane or Surform flat at the balsa- wood stage, before it reaches final hardness. For sanding, use blue 80 grit paper as shown. A piece of 4x2 makes an ideal sanding block. TRADE TRICK: For flat surfaces, the longer the sanding block, the better. 200mm long and used with two hands creating more pressure makes for a really fast, accurate result. For curved surfaces, use a cork block, as shown.

Picture 3 is a new gate with all sorts of problems. Some knot-holes have been filled and others left, to better illustrate the repair. Similarly, the split-out in the middle picket has been half filled and the TURBO BUILDER'S BOG has been nailed right through to fasten this paling. Try this with most other fillers (Including automotive – type polyester fillers) and they will split or even shatter. TURBO BUILDER'S BOG is designed to be nailed, or screwed, unlike other fillers.
Three different levels of hardener ratio have been used in the three pictures, to show how you can mix TURBO BUILDER'S BOG™ to make it harden fast or slow, according to the time you need to do the job- another friendly feature of the product

Tint it, Match it, Fix it.

TURBO TINT'n FILL™ is a new colour-matchable repair filler. Using the unique characteristics of TURBO BUILDER'S BOG™, TINT'n FILL™ lets users match their timber colour and grain, - your customers control the shade. It then sets rapidly, for
a wood-like repair.
Simply choose the kit containing the right range of colours to match the finished (oiled or varnished,) timber. Tint the filler using the colour paste, mix in the hardener, and fill the repair. Then sand and varnish. For an invisible repair, reproduce grain lines in the sanded and filled surface before varnishing; carving them with a pointed tool. Fill these engraved “grains” with a shade matched to the real woodgrain, sand again, varnish and you have an undetectable repair, given enough care. You can control the hardening time from a few minutes to 1/2 an hour by varying the white hardener ratio between the limits given overleaf.
There are 5 different colour kits to choose from, covering all commonly used timbers.

Directions for use:

1. Surface preparation:
The wood must be clean and dry. (moisture content <18 %). Remove all rot, mould spores and varnish. Roughen the surface to create a key.
Note; for an inconspicuous finish, minimize edges that cross the grain. If necessary, use a knife to reshape the damage so it runs with the grain before filling.
2. Colour mixing:
Knead the colour paste bottle before use. Use the overcap to mix filler. Take the amount of filler required for the whole job. To prevent premature hardening, do not add hardener until colour is matched. If there are several areas with different grains or shades, divide your filler into smaller piles and tint to match each area separately.
When mixing the colour paste in, aim to match the colour to your varnished wood. The unhardened Tint’n Fill® will appear lighter upon sanding, but approximately return to its original colour when clear coat is applied. BUT bare wood often darkens greatly on varnishing. HINT: To disclose the colour the wood will go, without varnishing it, wet a bare scrap with meths, turps or even water. Match TINT'n FILL™ to this colour. Mix a small amount of the colour paste in thoroughly, and test the shade on this timber scrap. Add more small amounts, testing between each, until the colour matches the timber.

3. Addition of hardener:
Only add the hardener to the one portion of tinted filler that you are about to apply. The hardener will not change the colour of your tinted mixes. Use the ratio specified on the can. Less hardener when hot or when more working time is required. More when cold weather or faster cure is required. Do not go outside the range given. Cure time will range from 3 minutes to 30 minutes depending on temperature and amount of hardener used.

4. Application of filler:
Apply with flat steel or plastic spreader. Squeeze out air, and leave the filler slightly proud of the timber
to allow for sanding. For application to moulded shapes, corners etc apply a good excess to allow for
surforming, carving and paring to shape. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for any subsequent portions of filler that you have matched.
5. Finishing:
When fully cured, rough sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper for rapid results. If paper clogs, wait a little longer. Then fine-sand. The finished product may then be clear finished.

Back to Top